Playing in the mud

Stage 15: Ins to Estavayer-du-lac (32,75 km) 

The specificity in my wishes apparently worked - no more rain. Todays stage takes me through the Grande Cariçaie, a nature reserve along the coast of lake Neuchatel.

I, being ignaorant as always, did not check beforehand what nature is being preserved here though. Turns out it is not (only) birds, but the largest marshland in Switzerland. Which means, I get to hike through mud most of the day. Which turned out to be a lot of fun.

Somewhere along the way I pass the 500km mark. So far, so good.

I also get treated with more lake views than yesterday. Overall, a pleasant day.

  

Lack of specificity; a beginners mistake

Stage 14: Biel to Ins (26,45 km) 

Okay, okay, you got me. Any ten year old could have told be, but I had experience it for myself.

So let me try again: Dear whoever-it-is-who-is-responsible-to-cater-to-my-whishes, when I say I like water, I mean exclusively oceans, lakes, rivers of any size in a natural, stable state. Me liking water does not include rain, puddles of the paths I walk, any sort of flooding or the like. Are we clear? Thank you so much.

For todays short stage I got mainly drizzle and grey-in-grey. And the Swiss managed to create a 20km walking path that they even call the "shoreline path" (Uferweg) where, while you are walking within 500m of the shoreline, they manage to obstruct the actual lake view for about 90% of the way. Crappiest stage so far.

Since for my, a healthy dose of sarcasm helps with unpleasant situations, here is two of todays finds. On the left, you can see the lake Biel, on the right is cow pasture. Maybe this exposed property explains the cost of meat here in Switzerland.     

Does that sign ever switch to closed?

Other than that, let us just forget this day

Everybody has a plan...

... until they get punched in the mouth. According to Mike Tyson.

Stage 13: Moutier to Biel (31,43 km) 

My original plan for the first part of the journey was to travel along the Eurovelo 15, the Rhine cycle path (Rheinradweg) to Basel.

Somewhere along the way, that plan got lost. It isn't even that I actively planned for a different route, that just appeared one day at a time. It started with not getting a decent place to stay where I wanted, so I tried "the other shore", meaning the French side of the river.

Although the first accommodation there (a cheap room in Strasbourg via AirBnB) wasn't a particular highlight, walking in France is just so much easier. Traffic is maybe 20% of what it is in Germany. And the traffic there is - is not a problem. Food is better, both in restaurants and in supermarkets. The quality you get, be it bread, cheese, juices, meats, anything (except for beer) is just supreme.

And then I found my old friend the canal again, and walking along its mostly shady shore on a well maintained cycling path was even more awesome than walking along father Rhine's bank.

So a day in France became five, I skipped Basel altogether and after crossing the Jura mountains today arrived in Biel.

The walk today was nothing spectacular, a mix of sun, clouds and the occasional very light shower, a couple of rather steep up- and downhills and mostly walking through woods.

Which made me realize: I don't like up- and downhills. I don't like woods. 

I like water (did I write about the the canal?). The coast. A river, lake, even a little creek.

So here I am in Biel, the lake Biel, the lake Neuchatel, the lake Geneva all are here - and look at my planned route. To the mountains as fast as possible.

This is what has kept me busy for the last couple of hours. Changing the plan. I will spend more time here, take in more scenery and enjoy what I like.

Will keep you posted. Oh, and there is a virtual unicorn on the horizon.

 

Good bye, old friend

Stage 11: Mulhouse - Ferrette (34,55 km) 

Today I start from my hotel in Mulhouse, less than a mile from where, ten years ago, a nice gentlemen first told me about the Rhine-Rhone-Canal. Which changed the whole journey to Santiago. And, in a way, changed my conception of France.

Today, as I walk along the canal and enjoy the beauty and tranquility of the path, I smile at the anger and pressure I have felt ten years ago. I smile at Heraclitus' words: "No man ever steps in the same river twice, for it's not the same river and he's not the same man." I don't know about the river, but the second part is quite true.

After about 10k, I say goodbye to the canal, for good this time (at least for this trip). Fun fact, these 10 k today are the only part of the route after Darmstadt that I have walked before.

With the canal, I am also leaving the flat part of Alsace and make my way toward the Jura mountain range. The path is a mixture of asphalt streets with decent traffic and steep walking trails. Nothing too challenging so far, but I am rather nervous about the next two days towards Biel.

Stocking up on food at the local supermarket shortly before arriving at my beautiful apartment in Ferrette.

 

I've got something better to do

Stage 3: Edingen to Schwetzingen (8,86 km) 

The day starts with good coffee at Martins place, I chill on the balcony before starting the very short walk to Schwetzingen station.

Less than two hours later, I am on a train back to Frankfurt.

Why?

Is it over already?

Not quite, but today my wonderful wife has her exam for becoming a paediatrician in Germany (she has been a paediatrician in Turkey for 15 years, but German ignorance demands that only a German education qualifies). She passed the exam with flying colors and we celebrate the day with a great dinner at probably the best Mexican restaurant in Frankfurt, the El Pacifico. 

There are more important things than #going2rome. Tomorrow I will take the train back and continue from where I have left off.

And so it begins... again.

Stage 1: Frankfurt to Seeheim (43,19 km) 

Ten years ago, when I started my run to Santiago de Compostela, I posted:

It starts like any journey.

You take a small step outside your fron door. And a second. And then another. Down the street you know well. You get to the cross-road, where you always take a left.

This time you take a right. Another couple of steps. There, where you would normally turn around and head home, you walk straight on. And then, eventually, everything around you is different.

I can't think of better words for the start of my journey today. It will be a different journey. I am ten years older, I have a different focus. More pains and niggles, maybe somewhat more experience.

Nevertheless, in a way it will be the same as ten years ago. It will be a jump into the great unknown. I am excited. And somewhat scared.

The first stage is somewhat similar; I start in Frankfurt instead of in Eppstein, finish is in Seeheim, from which I take the tram back to where I have a place to sleep (same place, same great friends as 10 years ago) to have some miles in the bank for tomorrow. 

The buggy is working this time, no last-minute repairs, only the camera mount isn't really up to par, I'll shorten it at night and will see if that helps.

Had an exceptionally good penne al'arrabiata in Langen at a place called Tiepolo for lunch.

Other than that, not much to report. 

Run with me

Want to join me? For the whole thing, any part, or just for half an hour in your lunch break? Just drop me a line, give me a ring, I'd be happy to run with you, whoever you are :-)