In a different world

Stage 37: Lido di Camaiore to Capannori (36.23 km)

I leave the beach and head towards the mountain range that I need to cross westwards towards Lucca.

A proper mountain pass (although not very high) in Italy of cause features some madonna to pray to...

the rest of the day is easy hiking until I reach Lucca. There I realize that the reason the area is completely booked is not the long weekend but the Lucca Comic & Games, the largest European Comic festival. So the town is overrun with drunk adults playing dress-up. Funny enough, that might actually be my cup of tea on a different day, but not today. Today it just p***es me off that I have spend the night in a mediocre bed&no breakfast for 150+$. 

Screw capitalism

Stage 35: Fiumaretta di Ameglia to Lido di Camaiore (28.91 km)

In my mind, I would be walking along the beach promenade see the ocean the whole day and be happy.

In reality I walked along a busy road (the beach promenade) and looked at closed building, gates, fences and hedges. But no ocean. 95% of the beachfront property here is concessioned for private beaches, which - since it is off season - are all closed and boarded up. A disgrace. At least the mountains to the other side offer nice views.

The stage is not too long, nevertheless I can't seem to find a rhythm. It is time for a break.

So I find a decent hotel (actually it is a shabby hotel, but it is mostly empty and) with a balcony overlooking the beach and sea.

Due to a public holiday on Monday, this apparently is long-weekend-travel season here. Hotels around Lucca are obscenely expensive, so I decide to stay here for 2 full days before continuing on Sunday.

The old man and the sea

Stage 35: Groppoli to Fiumaretta di Ameglia (40,03 km) 

The day starts sunny again down the mountains.

Beautiful views, empty roads, warm weather.

And then I reach the sea, a little east of La Spezia.

Time to celebrate

Over the pass

 Stage 34: Berceto to Groppoli (38,33 km) 

The first question of course: Which shoes to pick?

Then it is up the mountain. I wait for the steep climb up the pass.

But that never comes and after two hours of easy uphill hiking along an empty road I reach the Passo della Cisa, the highest point for this crossing of the Apennines (there will me more).

Small, deserted city streets

and wide panoramic views interchange during this pleasant day.

Back to the 80s

 For today I have booked a B&B in Berceto called "Casa di Marty", the house of Marty. Well, it has to be somebody's house.

When I reach the place and get shown my room, which is a whole apartment, it becomes clear that Marty refers not the owner of the B&B, but, "anybody home", Marty McFly.

The whole place is a homage to movies, pop culture, mostly 80, and most of all, Back to the Future. 

This is so awesome, I feel like a child again.

 

Into the mountains again

Stage 33: Fornova di Taro to Berceto (30,77 km) 

The landscape has changed. I start heading towards the Apennine mountains, the "backbone" of Italy which will accompany me throughout the remainder of my trip.

Do I feel lucky? I do. I am not. The path is steep, rocky and no fun.

But thew views are great and once I reach altitude, it evens out and takes me along a mountain spine for most of the afternoon.

The last couple of kilometres is all downhill. WTF? This is not downhill. Thank you komoot!

Sunday is Funday

 Stage 32: Collecchio to Fornovo di Taro (17,09 km) 

Whenever I plan my day, the basic question is: Do I follow the roads or do I take cycling/hiking paths? Both options can be hit and miss. The roads can be busy with trucks (often the case in the cast couple of days) or quiet and empty.

The paths can be nice, paved and tranquil, they can be rocky single trails or they can simply not exist.

Today is a short stage, so I decide for the path and this time I am well rewarded with a beautiful trail trough a nature reserve.

I also hit a short passage where the single trail becomes, well, no trail and I have to bush through a ditch and brambles, which costs me a flat tire.

But overall, well worth it. The day ends in a wonderful B&B, with home-cooked dinner.